Wood Finishing Equipment: What’s Actually in My Shop

Wood finishing equipment has gotten complicated with all the options flying around. As someone who’s tried most of them and wasted money on plenty that sit unused, I learned everything there is to know about what actually gets the job done. Today, I will share it all with you.

Sanding: Where Everything Starts

Finish only looks as good as the prep work underneath. No amount of fancy topcoat fixes sanding scratches. Here’s what I actually use:

• Random Orbital Sander: My workhorse. The random motion prevents swirl marks that show up under finish. I use mine on probably 80% of sanding tasks.
• Belt Sander: Aggressive material removal on big flat surfaces. Not for fine work — this thing removes wood fast.
• Detail Sander: That little triangular one. Gets into corners and tight spots where nothing else fits. Slower than I’d like, but necessary.

Brushes: More Complicated Than They Look

I’m apparently one of those people who owns way too many brushes, and natural bristle for oil works for me while synthetics for water-based never let me down.

• Natural Bristle: Animal hair holds oil-based finishes well. These are what I grab for polyurethane and varnish.
• Synthetic: Nylon or polyester. Won’t absorb water and swell up like natural bristle does. My choice for any water-based product.

Probably should have led with this section, honestly: cheap brushes leave bristles in your finish. Buy decent ones and clean them properly after every use.

Spraying: When Brushing Won’t Cut It

Large projects and ultra-smooth finishes mean spraying. Three main options:

• Airless: High-pressure pump atomizes the finish. Fast coverage on big surfaces like cabinets or decks. Overspray is significant though.
• HVLP: High Volume Low Pressure. Less overspray, more control. This is what I use for furniture. Takes longer but the results are worth it.
• Compressed Air: Traditional spray gun hooked to a compressor. Precise control for detail work. Requires good technique to avoid runs.

That’s what makes spray equipment endearing to us finishers — nothing else achieves that glass-smooth surface.

Polishing: The Final Step

After finish cures, polishing takes it further. Not always necessary, but for certain pieces it makes a real difference.

• Power Polishers: Rotating pad buffs the surface. I use one for tabletops and counters where I want a mirror shine.
• Random Orbital Polisher: Adds randomness to reduce swirl marks. Safer for finishes than a straight rotary polisher.
• Hand Buffing Pads: For small areas and touch-ups. Sometimes low-tech works best.

Safety Gear: Non-Negotiable

Finishes contain chemicals you shouldn’t breathe or get on skin. This stuff matters:

• Respirator: Not a dust mask — an actual respirator with organic vapor cartridges. I wear mine for any solvent-based finish.
• Safety Glasses: Finishes splatter. Eyes don’t recover from that.
• Gloves: Nitrile works for most applications. Some finishes eat through latex.

Drying Setup

Finished pieces need somewhere to cure without collecting dust or getting damaged.

• Drying Rack: I made mine from scrap lumber. Points of contact are small so pieces dry without sticking.
• Heat Gun: Speeds up drying in specific spots. Useful but easy to overdo — too much heat causes problems.
• Dehumidifier: Consistent humidity helps finishes cure predictably. My shop runs one most of the year.

Choosing What You Need

Don’t buy everything at once. Start with a random orbital sander, some decent brushes, and proper safety gear. Add specialized equipment as specific projects demand it.

The tools serve the work. Figure out what you’re actually making, then get what those projects require. I accumulated my finishing setup over years, not all at once.